I have a canon rebel XS camera with a T ring and the other piece to look into the scope with. When I use it I put it on 30 seconds of exposure time trying to take a picture of the Ring Nebula (M57) but nothing shows up its just all black. I can't hold the camera because when I do the image will get blurred so I leave it on a auto shoot. I can predict that it's out of focus because I'm using a 30 mm eyepiece for myself and 25 mm in the camera. I don't know if I should spend 300+ dollars getting the camera meant for deep sky objects or just buy this: http://www.telescope.com/Astrophotography/Astrophotography-Accessories/125-Orion-Astrophotography-Flip-Mirror/pc/-1/c/4/sc/61/p/5523.uts
and also buy a 30 mm or 25 mm to match the eyepieces I use.
another thing with the item I showed you; does it support cameras or just the CCD camera? Not sure.
and also buy a 30 mm or 25 mm to match the eyepieces I use.
another thing with the item I showed you; does it support cameras or just the CCD camera? Not sure.
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The XS works just fine. What you need is a device that by passes the 30 second limit the camera has. You can do this two ways (both are cheap too) -
1) Use a shutter timer device called a intervalometer
http://www.amazon.com/Timer-Remote-Contr…
2) Use a computer that has the software to control the camera.
http://www.stark-labs.com/nebulosity.htm…
The next thing you need is stacking software. It is a better thing to do if you take lots of short exposers of your target and then sum them together than one long shot. To do that, you use a free program -
http://www.astronomie.be/registax/
For something like the Ring (good choice, BTW, high in the sky and just big enough to work with) about 20 to 30, 120 second exposers work well. Two things that do help is to take dark frames (cap the scope and expose for black the same length of time and picture numbers you took the light photos). And bias frames (same number of pictures, but minimal exposer).
The darks and bias frames help to take out electronic noise and image gradients caused by light pollution and camera noise.
1) Use a shutter timer device called a intervalometer
http://www.amazon.com/Timer-Remote-Contr…
2) Use a computer that has the software to control the camera.
http://www.stark-labs.com/nebulosity.htm…
The next thing you need is stacking software. It is a better thing to do if you take lots of short exposers of your target and then sum them together than one long shot. To do that, you use a free program -
http://www.astronomie.be/registax/
For something like the Ring (good choice, BTW, high in the sky and just big enough to work with) about 20 to 30, 120 second exposers work well. Two things that do help is to take dark frames (cap the scope and expose for black the same length of time and picture numbers you took the light photos). And bias frames (same number of pictures, but minimal exposer).
The darks and bias frames help to take out electronic noise and image gradients caused by light pollution and camera noise.
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