Can I strip a 125V cable for use in appliance screw terminals? Specifically a wall outlet to this cable wich will connect to L1, N, GND on a 120-24VDC power supply for a PLC.
The power supply is a 10A 120V
The cable is a 10A 125V
Thanks!
The power supply is a 10A 120V
The cable is a 10A 125V
Thanks!
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An electrician at your service (badoo chu)
This question seems to pertain to ampacity. How many amps can pass through a wire, indeed a 16 AWG cable will be able to handle 10A and your insulation will contain the 125V. However there is good practice when it comes to things like this. The main question at hand is if this will be a continuos load or a non continuos load. You know those lights in 24hr wallmarts never turn off right? Thats a continuos load, generally anything that is on for more than a couple hours at a time. If this is the case then you need to size up the cable to a 14 AWG so that it will handle that load indefinitely. If you use a 16 AWG cable for a continuos load it will heat up over time and possibly melt, as the cable heats up it loses its conductivity which is expressed by the formula H=i^2R(t), now going through the lengths of calculations is probably unnecessary. Just size up the conductor if you need to if not, then there is no need.
EDIT:
Oh thats your question? I feel shaky doing that myself when I wire up transformers for home projects. Typically, when I just want to try something out I use wirenuts for the initial connections and if I feel satisfied I eventually make something more permanent. I use things like this
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.…
Which when mounted make a nice, neat and safe way for making a permanent connection. What you want is to minimize the possibility for a short or someone accidentally touching something live. So what I linked is good, and for good measure you could place some electrical tape over the screw terminals but thats up to you.
EDIT 2:
Yes that is perfectly fine, I would recommend placing some heat shrink over the loose conductors so they aren't hanging individually and route the cable in a manner where no one will trip on them or harm them in anyway. Aside from that, the setup if perfectly acceptable.
This question seems to pertain to ampacity. How many amps can pass through a wire, indeed a 16 AWG cable will be able to handle 10A and your insulation will contain the 125V. However there is good practice when it comes to things like this. The main question at hand is if this will be a continuos load or a non continuos load. You know those lights in 24hr wallmarts never turn off right? Thats a continuos load, generally anything that is on for more than a couple hours at a time. If this is the case then you need to size up the cable to a 14 AWG so that it will handle that load indefinitely. If you use a 16 AWG cable for a continuos load it will heat up over time and possibly melt, as the cable heats up it loses its conductivity which is expressed by the formula H=i^2R(t), now going through the lengths of calculations is probably unnecessary. Just size up the conductor if you need to if not, then there is no need.
EDIT:
Oh thats your question? I feel shaky doing that myself when I wire up transformers for home projects. Typically, when I just want to try something out I use wirenuts for the initial connections and if I feel satisfied I eventually make something more permanent. I use things like this
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.…
Which when mounted make a nice, neat and safe way for making a permanent connection. What you want is to minimize the possibility for a short or someone accidentally touching something live. So what I linked is good, and for good measure you could place some electrical tape over the screw terminals but thats up to you.
EDIT 2:
Yes that is perfectly fine, I would recommend placing some heat shrink over the loose conductors so they aren't hanging individually and route the cable in a manner where no one will trip on them or harm them in anyway. Aside from that, the setup if perfectly acceptable.
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I'm just a mechanic (not a mind reader).
You know what you're trying to do, but you question doesn't begin to describe that.
In general terms, installing a power cord involves matching the capacity of the cord with the requirements of the appliance.
eg: If the device you're supplying power to requires 1200 Watts (10Amps@120V) you
would use AWG#14 wire for good practice. In theory AWG#16 will carry 10 Amps and is permitted in
some applications. But the smaller wire quickly becomes overloaded by length, temperature, duration of use, and loads on the device it supplies.
If this is not your question; add details.
You know what you're trying to do, but you question doesn't begin to describe that.
In general terms, installing a power cord involves matching the capacity of the cord with the requirements of the appliance.
eg: If the device you're supplying power to requires 1200 Watts (10Amps@120V) you
would use AWG#14 wire for good practice. In theory AWG#16 will carry 10 Amps and is permitted in
some applications. But the smaller wire quickly becomes overloaded by length, temperature, duration of use, and loads on the device it supplies.
If this is not your question; add details.